Sunday, September 17, 2017


Here are a few updates to the existing routes in Cascades Rock.
  • Page 69 - Rise and Fall, after the P1 approach (folks would likely use the 5.9 first pitch of Davis-Holland) this just requires QDs and a single green alien or blue Metolius, and even this could be skipped for the bold. A cam is just handy when low on P2, P4. 
  • Page 76 - A rockfall event on the P5 roof of Vanishing Point on Mt. Baring has altered the pitch, or at least the right-hand options over the roof. Nathan Hadley reports that the pitch still goes, staying more left. It is now in the low 5.12 range.
  • Page 265 - A major rockfall on the Harrington-Kearney route on Castle Peak has likely destroyed the original pitches 2,3,4. A new route (and likely a worthy replacement) was climbed by Jason Schilling and partner. It's called "The Drawbridge" and googling it will yield info.
  • Page 145-146 - Liberty Crack now features a free variation (bolted) pitch to the right of the (aid) bolt ladder on P2. This free version has 4 protection bolts and its own new high belay bolt to supplement the singleold bolt. P1 of Liberty Crack is snow-dependent ~45m long, but the first 10-15m can be scrambled in coming from the left to the top of the pyramid feature. 
  • Page 152 - Independence Route major updates. Now 5.11c.  End P3 on a new 2-bolt belay on a ledge labeled "R. after 1 bolt". Pitch 4 now begins up the 5.8 chimney and goes into the alcove, and still has options of then going left (harder, better?) or right. If going right, there is new a bolt to protect the move leaving the cave, where there had previously been a fixed head and piton. Pitch 6, the crux, is definitely easier than 5.12- if going high from the belay and moving right into the flake above where the traditional boulder problem traversed right. Finally, belay atop pitch 6 using a new lower belay between the ".11+ and .11" notes on the topo. This small stance features an old piton and a single new belay bolt, and can be further backed up with a small piece. This eliminates the use of the hanging (4 old bolts) aid belay under the roof, which was shown as the end of P6. There are several pitons and at least 1 bolt on the final pitch of Independence which are not shown in the topo, but which dated to the early 1990s or earlier.
P1 - 5.8 30m (the same)
P2 - 5.10b 30m (the same)
P3 - 5.10+ 25m (belay lower, on the right)
P4 - 5.11- (right) or 5.11+ (left) 40m (skip possible belay in the alcove atop chimney)
P5 - 5.11b/c 30m
P6 - 5.11c 20 (belay lower, on right)
P7 - 5.11c 50m (skip hanging belay under roof) 
  • Page 172 has a typo - P8 should say .10b not .11b - the topo on Page 173 has it correct where it says ".10 steep hands".
  • Page 5 - The photo of the Gunsight peaks was taken by Eric Thompson, not J. Scurlock
  • Page 9 - As of 4/16 the USFS has extended the Enchantments permit season to begin 5/15, not 6/15. Overnight permit season still ends 10/15.

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